Biscuits are the Spoons you can Eat
During spring break I drove through a number of southern
states. On the way to sunny Florida I decided to have one of my favorite foods,
a cheeseburger, in the different states to compare how culture can influence
the same type of food. Cheeseburger number one was at the World’s Largest
Culvers. Dazed from driving all day I went to order and when asked “single,
double, or triple” my brain filled in the sentence with “bypass” before I
realized he meant the number of patties. In due diligence for research I ordered
a triple of the Midwest beef Pollan tells us about. The burger was excellent.
(Please know I don’t usually do this type of thing.)
The next day I had a cheeseburger from a Five Guys in
Tennessee. My god. It was more hamburger than I’ve seen (or eaten) in my life.
Five guys only goes up to a double, in terms of patty number and cardiac bypass
potential, so the comparison is not direct. Nonetheless, the double was larger
than anything I’ve hefted to face in the past. I felt like I was Guy Fieri
about to take a bite of some monstrosity and yell about flavortown. When in the
Five Guys a young girl was eagerly licking ketchup off of whatever surface it
could be applied to. I couldn’t help but notice the size of her and the size of
those in her family, and wonder if this could be correlated to the huge portion
size. I was reminded of a billboard we had driven past earlier in the which
read “Biscuits are the spoons that you can eat.” I laughed at this, and then
sat back to realize that it was an entirely serious advertising campaign.
However, this billboard was in contention with another advertising sliced white
bread as “A Dieter’s Dream at 35 Calories a Slice.”
It seems that the south, perhaps America as a whole, has a
love-hate relationship with carbs. Carbs, to paraphrase Lewis Black, are what
got us humans to evolve to where we are today and what we’ve always eaten. When
I was thinking about the carbs eaten by my family and the carbs eaten in the
south I realized that a crucial difference was in the processing. It’s the
eating of bleach white bread rather than polenta or ziti. My mother, a
Mediterranean woman, subsists on a diet of sausage and peppers, pasta many
nights a week, wine, and then more sausage and red meat. Yet, she’s healthier
than my father, and by the numbers of her cholesterol, bp, and weight,
healthier than most of America. She even gets mistaken for my sibling. She is
almost strangely healthy. I realized that in the south people were eating what
I’ve come to think of as calorically dense foods, where the serving size is not
just large in terms of covering the plate but large in terms of the number of
calories conveyed to the mouth with each bite. I realized that for all of the
pasta we eat, it’s the wheat talked about by Pollan as favorable to our body.
It’s not been processed into the equivalent of brick of energy.
While some may say blame all carbs for making us fat, I
suggest it’s the biscuit spoons.
Hey! This is really interesting, and as a southerner myself, I can confirm that the sights you saw in Tennessee are not uncommon in Texas, my state. I wonder if Pollan can help us here by talking about culinary tradition, and the guiding force that it is at its best. When we are reducing something fundamental like cutlery to another consumable wad of carbs, we betray our lack of culinary cohesion. The portion sizes from the midwest to the south also show us this. We really cant make up our mind about how much we should eat and how we should eat.
ReplyDeleteBut nothing really SOUTHERN (Culvers, I wager, really is sort of 'Midwestern,' but 5 guys is a chain with Sysco-like quality control.) Corporate food.
ReplyDelete